Author John Rowell makes a case for DC as undiscovered movie musical territory.
Whenever I write about a city, the first thing I usually try to remember is: in what Broadway or Hollywood musical did that city serve as the setting? For a city like New York, well, any Joe can come up with examples off the bat: 42nd Street, West Side Story, Fame, On The Town. Hollywood figures prominently in heyday musical pictures—Singing in the Rain, to cite one of the best. Of course Chicago gets top billing in Kander & Ebb and Bob Fosse's eponymous creation. Even one of the heartland's smaller metropolises is best remembered by this immortal invitation: Meet Me In St. Louis. What big song and dance extravaganza was endowed with glamour and glittering backdrop thanks to Washington DC?
"Senators, congressmen and Washington hostesses breaking out into spontaneous numbers on the Capitol steps"
Our Nation's Capital seems to enjoy only rare movie musical moments. I recall one—in Li'l Abner, when Abner, Daisy Mae, Mammy Yokum, and Moonbeam McSwine descend on Washington to save their town, Dogpatch, from its fate as an atomic testing ground. Oh, and everybody's favorite orphan drops by the White House in Annie, but then, The White House is something of a city unto itself—especially these days. To the best of my knowledge, the exciting, highly photogenic city of Washington never figured prominently in a vintage movie musical. What a shame; and just think how alluring and hip the title might have been: D.C.
Senators, congressmen and Washington hostesses breaking out into spontaneous numbers on the Capitol steps could be as sexy and fun as Chicago�s merry murderesses strutting behind bars. Certainly, power concentrates in Washington, and with power comes glamour—vital ingredient for any musical. Perhaps gay visitors to DC will have to provide their own score—the inspiration is all around. For all its prominent landmarks and fine memorials to the past, Washington packs heat along with its history lessons. Both can be traced to Washington's gay populace, which is often made up of incredible looking and enjoyably smart men of all ages, types, political persuasions� I'm getting ahead of myself.
"that young man who just passed you his phone number on a matchbook might easily be a trusted advisor to a right wing Republican senator"
Naturally, when visiting "The District," as locals are fond of calling it, you'll want to check out The Smithsonian, The Bureau of Engraving and Printing, the wonderful, justifiably famous zoo, The Kennedy Center, the Vietnam and Korean War Memorials, The Capitol Building, the Mall (especially during spring's incomparable cherry blossom display) and the Washington Monument—distinguished as one of the world's most phallic-shaped tourist attractions.
And then there's the less well documented gay life of D.C., which is thriving, fun, and far more plentiful than you might expect. Sure, you may step through the occasional closet door here: that young man who just passed you his phone number on a matchbook might easily be a trusted advisor to a right wing Republican senator. But what would sex be without taboos? Washington's gay life thrives brightest and boldest in the neighborhood known as Dupont Circle, sort of the Gay Ground Zero of the District, where the D.C. men unbutton their button downs or shift into muscle shirts and head out for drinks and dancing. The Circle is just that: a huge, festive centerpiece, or a human Lazy Susan off of which the avenues Massachusetts, Connecticut, and New Hampshire all shoot—like the choices Glinda offers Dorothy—pointing folks deeper into Dupont The Circle proper is something like the Champs Elysee of Washington; a gathering place, a people-watching place, an inner city port of call, a park, an oasis, a refuge.
A few blocks from the circle, prepare to stumble upon bars and restaurants that promise something for everyone, especially travelers seeking to sample from the heart of gay DC nightlife. First stop on anyone's list should be J.R.�s, (1519 17th Street NW) a venerable watering hole that has achieved classic status—a Harry's Bar in Venice, or Rick's in Casablanca. Young, middle-aged, beyond-middle-aged: everyone mixes here, with a decidedly preppy, slightly upscale bent. You'll eavesdrop on juicy Inside-the-Beltway gossip while cozying up to any number of well-heeled bodies. (Cozy is the operative word in the narrow, typically overflowing-to-capacity downstairs; the less-frequented upper level mezzanine gives you a little more room to spread out and scan the throng below.) Wanderers from J.R.'s find themselves spilling down 17th Street to Chaos (1603 17th Street NW) and Cobalt (1639 R Street NW), or over to the Fireplace (2161 P Street NW), which can be as warm and inviting as its name. For the leather-inclined there's the DC Eagle, located at 639 New York Avenue NW.
"...the boys look like Hockney models against white and candy-colored walls"
One bar whose star has risen over the D.C. skyline is Halo (1435 P Street, NW), a beautifully designed two-floor spread that packs an attractive crowd nightly. Bidding for eye contact and conversation is more competitive here—the boys look like Hockney models against white and candy-colored walls, sipping Halo's celebrated muddled mojitos, or lounging come-hitherly on the slick leather couches. It's all in the game, as the old song says, and, Stand-and-Model attitude aside, there's a big plus here: Halo is smoke-free.
For dining out, you'll want to check out the ultra-gay Duplex Diner (2004 18th Street, NW), which features upscale 50's comfort fare served in an atmosphere that evokes, if not exactly a Hollywood musical, at least those Douglas Sirk soapers like Written on the Wind and All That Heaven Allows, or Todd Haynes' latter-day Sirk tribute, Far From Heaven (and a wait staff as bright and attractive as any chorus boys.) The Diner at 2453 18th Street, NW is also a good bet for tasty, homey grub, especially late at night. For a more languid restaurant experience, head to the long wood tables at Logan Tavern (1423 P Street, NW) for its creative, uptown-but-affordable bistro fare or the ever popular Kramerbooks & Afterwords Caf� & Grill (1517 Connecticut Avenue, NW), which is situated above one of Dupont Circle's most prominent bookstores, Kramerbooks. (Book lovers will also want to make their way to Lambda Rising, at 1625 Connecticut Ave., NW for the best in gay and lesbian literature and the latest magazines, calendars and paraphernalia.)
Finally, one of the Circle's oldest landmark restaurants, Annie�s Paramount Steak House (1609 17th Street, NW), attracts all manner of gay clientele for hearty fare, though more exotic beef eaters may want to head to Hamburger Mary's (1337 14th Street, NW), which boasts an impressive array of creative burgers.
Who knew Our Nation's Capital was so fun, and so gay? Why, even the current administration—housed a mere fox trot from the Circle and all its charming gay denizens—can't do anything to slow the pulse and excitement of 17th Street, P Street and points in between. So why didn't Hollywood ever make a musical set in Washington? Li'l Abner would have had a great, beaming time had he wondered from the Senate floor to J.R.'s. I can hear a new refrain for that stalwart fella: "So Long, Daisy Mae!" or "Hell, I'm Just A Dog From Dogpatch." How about "When In Dupont (Do as the Circle Boys Do)"? Oh, why re-write musical theater history? Washington is the place where history is made every day, and where, who knows, you may find your very own living, breathing Washington Monument.
Washington D.C. Page Washington D.C. PDF Photos, top to bottom:
The heart of Dupont Circle.
A member of the United States Honor Guard in Lincoln Memorial.
Adam's Morgan.
Ariel view of Thomas Circle (DC is organized by quadrants. If it's gay it's likely to be in the Northwest section).
All photos courtesy of Washington, DC Convention & Tourism Corporation.
